West Africa conjures images of deserts, music, voodoo, mud mosques and Timbuktu. I recently returned from my fifth trip to West Africa and I have to add my guide, Julius Debrah, to my list of most memorable experiences.

Julius was the leader of our small groups excursion through colorful, cheerful, lush and throbbing communities and landscapes of Ghana, Togo and Benin in March and April of 2008. Julius projects a dominating jocularity. Never at a loss for words (in any of five languages) Julius told jokes and stories, negotiated the necessary bribes at check posts, talked the police into loaning us gas in a dry zone, and partied and parlayed with politicians, game wardens, hoteliers and village chiefs across three countries.

There is a great deal to say about Ghana, Togo and Benin as interesting places to visit, but Julius convinced me, again, that the quality of a cross cultural experience is profoundly shaped by the leader who takes you across the invisible boundaries that artificially define human differences. I think I would not take another trip to these countries unless I know that Julius will be along!